July 2010, Newport Beach, California.
So finally found my flip flops, boardies, bike and dignity at the house across the road, who knew? The swell that kicked in last week faded to 2ft chop but this means that it’s easier to just get in and swim, which is what I did, fully clothed after a run last night. And this was without any Tequila this time. Truly remarkable. Headed down to San Onofre at the weekend, rather like going back to California in the 60’s. Think Big Wednesday and you have it spot on. Baby waves, some hilarious moments of people trying to walk their boards back in over the stones, (one guy took half an hour over it and he was in ankle deep water the whole time). The swell should be picking up this weekend and have trip planned so will report back. For now while we wait for swell, this gem of a site may be of interest – www.globalquiver.com – a way for surfers to hire boards from other surfers around the world, saving on excess baggage costs and meaning that you may well have a quiver better suited to the break you are traveling to without the hassle of lugging your precious 9′1″ along for the ride.